watches - recommendations by phil

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phil's watches recommendations

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Temption Formula Rally Chronograph Watch

Updated Jan 5, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

Cool. A lean and clean motorsports-inspired German chronograph powered by an automatic movement with day/date display. The internals provide precise timekeeping in the case of an understated looker. The stainless steel case is a black/silver/black steel sandwich with a red tachymeter register on the black matte bezel. The deep black face has red and white dial markings, luminous hands, and a needle-slender red sweep seconds hand. The strap is black leather with matching red stitching, secured by a deployant clasp. Sharp. The effect is finished off with red coral inlays capping the screw-down crown and pushers. Subtle, precise, masculine and sweet.

For a more assertive take on the same functionality, check out Temption's Curare Classic Chronograph -- all black with yellow markings, just like the curare frog that inspired it.

Temption is an interesting German watch company. It is not building watches for status-seekers. It designs and builds contemporary watches influenced by Bauhaus and WabiSabi design principles, in an effort to offer lasting value and style. The founder emphasizes simplicity, legibility and build integrity in every design. Want exclusivity? Temption only makes 700 watches per year. Get one. (via Temption)

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Jorg Schauer Kulisse Edition 11 Chronograph Watch, Black

Updated Jan 5, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

German watchmakers often have a leaner, more austere aesthetic than their Swiss counterparts, in whose shadow they toil. But this creates alternatives for you that are very high quality, affordable, leverage Swiss internals, and are distinctive enough to set you apart. This Jorg Schauer Kalisse is a good example. This is an automatic mechanical chronograph with a beautiful, simple dial for precise reading of elapsed time. The case is stainless steel, hand-finished to a matte ground, with a striking screw-attached bezel. The crystal is slightly-domed sapphire and there is a display case-back revealing the decorated movement. A leather strap is standard, with stainless steel bracelet options offered.

Other Kulisse models offer white faces with blue hands, as well as additional complications. This is the cleanest, meanest Kulisse. (via Jorg Schauer)

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Schaumburg AquaBlack 2 Dive Watch

Updated Jan 5, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

Dive watches are popular, even among people whose only exposure to water is rain or a shower. The idea of wearing a watch good for the pressures of immersion at 1000m or even 2000m gives this chunky watch style a daydream factor that's hard to resist. There sure are a lot of dive watches on offer. Well, it's not my favorite style of watch, but I get asked about them often, so here's one I recommend: The Schaumburg Aqua Black 2.

Schaumburg is a small German watch company, formerly known as Lindburgh & Benson. The company uses precise Swiss commodity mechanical movements and packages them in massive hardware designed to take tremendous undersea pressures while keeping precise time. The Aqua series are rated to 1000 meters. This is a straightforward watch with hours, minutes, sweep seconds and date. The movement is automatic mechanical, so self-winding. The screw-in crown is protected by machined protectors. The timing bezel is unidirectional. The standard strap is water-resistant leather.

The Aqua Black 2, shown here, has a black face with orange hour markers. Aqua Black 1 has white markers on black face. The coming Aqua Black 3 has a fully enumerated orange face. The cases on all are steel with black PVD finish. This is probably the deepest black PVD finish you'll see on a watch. If you prefer silvery stainless alone, the same watches are available in the standard Aqua Diver series with a wider range of face colors. Also in stainless are chronograph versions. All have thick sapphire crystals and solid steel backs.

1000m rating too wimpy for you? The Aqua Titan series are rated to 2000m water resistance! (via Lindburgh & Benson)

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Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date Watch

Updated Jan 1, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

In watches, precious few qualify as genuine icons and those that do line up behind the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. The original sport watch, today the Reverso skates both sides of the line dividing dress watches from casual and is equally at home in both roles. The vast range of contemporary Reversos includes five case sizes for men and women, and every wrist size. The Grande case size has enough presence not to get lost in a sea of today's dinner plate sized watches, yet is discreet enough to fit under a shirt cuff and work with a suit.

The Grande Date Reverso is a hand-wound Swiss mechanical watch with Jaeger's in-house double-barrel 8-day rectangular movement. That's right -- wind this watch no more than once per week for up to 8 days of precise timekeeping. This watch has a large date indicator, a power reserve gauge, standard hours/minutes/small seconds, and a sapphire display window on the reverse of the case to show off the exquisite movement.

A Reverso of any size will never be unstylish nor ordinary. This Deco-infused design and exacting JLC execution provides a lifetime of ownership pleasure, and telegraphs your taste. Available in steel, gold and pink gold, with leather strap and deployant clasp or polished bracelet. (via Jaeger LeCoultre)

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Cuervo y Sobrinos Robusto Buceador Automatic Dive Watch

Updated Jan 1, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

The distinctive flair of Cuervo's Cuban heritage is vivid in this latin take on the dive watch. Face it, most dive watches are worn for "desk diving," never seeing a drop of water other than the stray spray of a garden hose or the splash of washed hands in the mens room. But there's always dreaming. Rated water resistant to 660 ft., this watch is ready for swimming, water sports, snorkeling and light diving. Water resistance is misunderstood. You need a rating well in excess of your intended use. Don't swim with a watch rated water resistant to merely 50 feet. The pressures the watch sees from your arms stroking through the water are quite different from merely dipping your wrist in standing water. The Buceador's 200 meter depth rating is the minimum for reliable use in routine water sports and amateur underwater activities.

Available in white, black and blue face, the blue is the one to grab. With orange accents and luminous hour markers, it makes a visual statement without shouting "DIVER!" as its clunkier cousins from other brands. It also eschews the ubiquitous engraved thick outer timing bezel of most dive watches in favor of an interior bezel under the sapphire crystal, which is rotated via the second crown.

The curvy stainless steel case has both brushed and polished surfaces. The Cuervo-modified and decorated commodity Swiss automatic mechanical movement keeps precise time in a stylish package. The strap is synthetic rubber secured by a stainless steel deployant clasp. This is an unusually expressive diver, not the blunt instrument usually seen in this sector of watches. (via Cuervo y Sobrinos)

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Arnold & Son Scout GMT Navigation Watch

Updated Jan 2, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

Arnold & Son was a premier British watchmaker that specialized in navigation timepieces for longitude location back when the Brits were assembling an empire and networking the world via sailing ships. Now a Swiss watchbuilder co-habiting the same tent with Graham (another once-British specialist in chronographs) under Swiss parent The British Masters, Arnold & Sons continues the brand's traditional navigation focus.

The Scout is an arresting watch, though not for being loud but for being beautiful and functionally interesting. Using an Arnold-modified commodity Swiss automatic movement, the Scout displays primary time, plus a second time zone. The second time zone display doubles as a solar compass and the circumference bezel permits easy and precise triangulation for fixing your unknown position at sea, referencing the known position of at two mapped features. The orange and black color scheme on the face is enhanced by the craft of the compass point markers. All the navigation graduations are precisely rendered.

This watch has a polished stainless steel case with a coin-edged outer bezel. The casework is at Jaeger levels and the best I've seen for anything not made by Jaeger than has a street price under $5000. At 44.5mm diameter, the Scout isn't small, but it doesn't wear like a pie plate either. The case contours and its relative thinness for a multi-function watch, plus the beauty of its face, make it tasteful yet loaded with presence.

The Scout has a sapphire display back, and the movement elements in view are nicely decorated. The watch is not made in high volume and the dealer network is small. You won't see it on every wrist. It's not a known icon; Arnold is a brand in-the-making in the modern watch world, and the Scout won't broadcast status other than that which derives from taste, imagination and an appreciation for the distinctive. The Scout comes on a synthetic rubber black or yellow strap with polished and signed buckle. A stainless steel bracelet is an option. (via Arnold & Sons)

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Oris Chronoris Automatic Mens Chronograph Watch

Updated Jan 1, 2008

1st to recommend

Description

The ubiquitous chronograph, a staple of masculine watches, is frequently rendered illegible, its face crowded with dials or rendered a tuna-can-caricature of timekeeping when made big enough to give its registers some breathing room. Then there's the problem that most chronos look alike, distinguished only by black, silver or white face as backdrop for the standard three subdials chronograph layout. Yes, of course the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chrono is visually and functionaly distinctive and exemplary in its crafting. But its near five-figures street price isn't in everyone's reach. If you want something masculine, distinctive, iconic, tasteful, mechanical and affordable with sports timing capability, the Oris Chronoris is for you.

The modern Chronoris is a modern update on Oris' motorsports-inspired, iconic 1970 Chronoris, still with the click-stop inner timing bezel and the stopwatch sweep second hand. For today's version, Oris enlarged the case a bit (now 40mm across w/o crown, up from the original's 37mm) for more wrist presence without putting a wall clock under your cuff. The thin orange click-stop bezel is there, along with Oris' trademark "big crown". The commodity Swiss automatic movement is Oris-modified. The new Chronoris adds a minute counter at 12 o'clock.

People bemoan '70s styling, remembering only the shag carpet, big lapels, gold chains and blow-dry hair on men. But they forget that '70s excess came later in the decade. Along with the clean and sweet 1970 Camaro, the early Shark Corvettes with thin chrome bumpers and flying buttress greenhouse, and the '70 Dodge Challenger, this Chronoris is inspired by design themes from when culture was on the bubble and confidence, optimism and exuberance were in perfect balance. The sleek truncated oval, two-texture brushed and polished case surfaces, and the uncluttered dial precisely graduated for timing functions puts you back in a time when people were still excited about going to the moon.

Oris commissioned an era-appropriate perforated black leather racing strap with brilliant orange edging and a deployant clasp. They include an alternate stainless steel bracelet along with the changing tool and spare pins to alternate looks at will. It's all wrapped up in a convenient and cool leather travel case. This is a man's watch that won't overwhelm your wrist, oozes cool, and don't be surprised if your wife or girlfriend lifts it now and then before you get a chance to strap it on in the morning. (via Oris)

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Cuervo y Sobrinos Torpedo Pulsometro Chronograph Watch

Updated Nov 6, 2006

1st to recommend

Description

Pre-Castro, Cuervo y Sobrinos was a Havana watchmaker of considerable renown. Now CyS is located in Europe and crafting Swiss automatic movement watches that also resurrect many of the expressive mid-20th-century Caribe-Latin tropical case shapes and dials that evoke a more elegant and understanding era. Put a Cuervo watch on your wrist and feel your heart rate slow, your stress level drop, and your euphoria level climb every time you check the hour. The case shapes are decidedly vintage but updated to the newer large sizes of contemporary timepieces. Project a higher sense of style than the generic status brands, keeping the quality but eschewing the lack of imagination. Look at this watch -- now THAT's a watch face! The Cuervo y Sobrinos web site shows the full spectrum of lazy Cohiba style they offer. My favorite is this Torpedo Pulsometro Chronograph in stainless steel. Your dial can be black & white, all black, 2-tone cream, or my favorite, black & cream.

Your watch is often noticed before you're within speaking distance, so make a careful choice that telegraphs your taste and imagination. THIS is a careful choice for an independent-minded man. (via Cuervo y Sobrinos)

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Hamilton Ventura Mens Watch

Updated Nov 12, 2006

3 people recommended this item

Description

The original Hamilton Ventura was designed to introduce the first battery-powered electric watch movement in the mid-1950s. Still located in Lancaster, Pennsylvania at that time, Hamilton blended its art deco heritage with the prevailing space age / jet age / nukie zeitgeist to come up with a distinctive and daring wrist aesthetic. In the 1960s and 1970s, as all things '50s became uncool for awhile, and Hamilton faded as a domestic watchmaker, the Ventura receded from public view. But I still remember how extravagent the Ventura looked on the wrists of middle-aged businessmen in Pennsylvania during my youngest desk-diving Cold War years, and the look stuck with me. Today's version is a splendid repro, but with a quartz movement it's more accurate than ever.

By the way, the "Shop for this at:" link above leads to Amazon.com. I don't do business with Amazon -- ever -- but I piled on another thisnext user's recommendation and unfortunately the Amazon reference was embedded in the entry. Here's an alternate dealer online: http://www.ewatches.com/Hamilton/Ventura.html. (via Watches Planet)

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Oris Flight Timer Limited Edition WWII Commemorative Man's Watch

Updated Sep 19, 2006

1st to recommend

Description

Right off the bat, people are going to ask you what that big knob at 2 o'clock on your watch is for. It's a big polished stainless steel protrusion set off the watch case a bit, shiny enough to be a control element on a Harley-Davidson, and you've seen smaller doorknobs. Well...not really. But it's unusual. Not without purpose though. See, this watch tracks time in THREE zones at once. So when you've flown out of your home airfield in Honolulu with a fuel stop at Johnston Atoll headed to Majuro in the Marshall Islands and you want to keep all three times on your wrist, that big knob at 2 o'clock is handy to twist with your gloved hand in the chilly cockpit when the radio call comes in to send you to Ponape instead. When your itinerary changes at the last minute, that third time zone is easy to change without taking this watch off your wrist.

Oris has other chunky Flight Timers but only this commemorative to 60 years of (relative) peace since the end of WWII tracks time in three zones, and has that intriguing knob. It's a limited edition, black & white no-nonsense face to read 3 zones plus seconds, in 42 mm of steely aviation glory. You get this watch in a polished wood presentation case and it ships with both the burly brown leather pilot's band and a stainless steel contemporary alternative. Only 1945 copies made. Now, wouldn't you rather have a watch with a story instead of just a watch? (via Authentic Watches)

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Oris Sinatra Limited Edition Man's Watch

Updated Sep 21, 2006

1st to recommend

Description

Frank Sinatra was never underdressed, but that didin't mean he wouldn't have to put the fist of his watch-wearing arm into the kisser of some lug who let a careless insult slip. Especially if the insult involved Frank's dame, or Dino, Joey, Peter, and Sammy. This Oris dress watch is made for such a moment. When your shirt and jacket sleeves ride up your left arm as you extend a quick jab to take care of business, you're going to want to make the right impression on your adversary -- and any onlookers you've no doubt attracted. About 40mm of gleaming squarish stainless steel flashes your design sense just before crunch time hits. Your victim will be thinking the polished and blued numbers on the mid-century dial shame his own sorry timepiece just before you stagger him back on his heels. Or you might drop him flat with the hefty mass of steel encasing an Oris-modified Swiss automatic mechanical movement adding to your momentum. There's enough shock mounting for the movement to keep time right through the meeting of fist to face, like nothing happened. And the black stingray band is as tough and stylish as you are. There are several beautiful Oris Frank Sinatra tribute watches, but there are only 2090 of this one, ever. Each one comes in a cedar humidor to double as cigar storage, complete with a stainless steel cutter. Now which would you rather have -- this or some watch worn by a tennis player in short pants you saw on a billboard? (via Dream Watches Blog)

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Jaeger LeCoultre Master Compressor Geographic watch

Updated Jul 11, 2006

1st to recommend

2 people recommended this item

Description

Want a watch that can emotionally engage you and set your imagination to other points on the globe? Any Jaeger "Geographic" will do, but the Master Compressor gets the nod. Sometimes a chunkier watch with "complications" is more interesting and fun. But it has to be tasteful, cleverly engineered, impeccably crafted and a pleasure to use and see. A serious watch that will hold your interest, tangible with working sounds and silky texture in every control. Always start with Jaeger-LeCoultre when looking for such a watch. Known best for the iconic Reverso, Jaeger is one of a tiny coterie of watchmakers who make the whole watch, movement to crown. In the trade, Jaeger is considered the watchmaker's watchmaker. Sometime, at least one watch you own should come from a company that is more than a case designer for movements bought elsewhere. Only a few qualify. Jaeger-LeCoultre heads the list.

The Master Compressor watches have innovative seals at the controls for robust water resistance. Available in varying levels of complication, from simple date and time to full chronograph, all the Master Compressors share restrained style, assertive form, clear legibility, and smooth automatic movements. Mine is the Master Compressor Geographic, showing a second time selectable from around the world, each time zone represented by a landmark city in the visible crescent below 6 o'clock. Hot and want to feel cooler? Set the 2nd zone for Anchorage. Need some tranquility? Dial in Samoa. Whether your tastes run to chronographs or basic functions, there's a Master Compressor to telegraph your judgment on quality and lasting satisfaction. You can buy on the web but give your local dealer a chance too. Look carefully at warranty policies from online sellers. (via Jaeger LeCoultre)

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Mazzuoli Manometro watch

Updated Jan 2, 2008

1st to recommend

9 people recommended this item

Description

Let's face it -- you need a watch. Not a disposable Swatch, but a watch. A machine with a real mechanical movement that can be a lasting talisman of your style. It's gonna cost you, because this is for more than time and you won't be using a battery. It is for craft, precision, expression and permanent value. So instead of buying 20 dreary throwaway watches over the next few years, save up for one. It's a start and there's no better way than to start with this one: The Mazzuoli Manometro. Simple, Italian, unusual, precise, weighty and loaded with taste.

The designer, Guiliano Mazzuoli, has designed paper, notebooks, pens and now a watch. Just one for now, this one, inspired by the simple and readable classic pressure gauges found in garages and workshops. The defining style of the Manometro is now available in several variants beyond the dial color choices of the the original: Manometro Chronograph, Manometro Limited Edition with date and bronzed titanium brushed case, and Manometro Sport in black carbon fiber case and dial with titanium back and crown.

Whichever version you prefer, you'll get one perfect object absent anything superfluous. Mazzuoli selected a proven Swiss automatic movement with Incablock anti-shock. The leather strap is novel in its screwed-in attachment to the case, incredibly durable, and interchangeable. You can have the basic Manometro in a polished or satin finish steel case. Your dial can be cream, white, black, or blue. Your strap can be tan, brown, black, navy or wine-red. A right-wrist version for lefties places the crown on the left side of the case, at 10 o'clock. Mine is polished, classic cream face, tan leather strap, standard 2 o'clock crown. The chronograph is polished steel only, in black or cream dial and black or brown lizard strap.

You can only buy this watch from a handful of dealers, listed on the Mazzuoli web site. It's a large diameter watch but still fits under a shirtsleeve and it definitely cuts through the blingy chronos, loud Rolex golds and multi-button wonders so common in every crowd of strivers. Your kids will be fighting over who gets this one 60 years on. (via Dream Watches Blog)

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